It’s not unusual for a Kundan necklace to spend more time being made than some people spend planning their weddings. A custom piece can take anywhere from two to four months to craft.
What looks like shimmering gems set in gold is actually the result of centuries of technique, secret alloys, and a kind of artistry that's only found in the workshops of India’s finest craftspeople.
So what exactly is Kundan jewellery, and why does it matter so much to Indian tradition and modern fashion? This guide by Amorella will give you a clear, honest look at how Kundan came to be, how to spot the real thing, and why it’s still as coveted in 2026 as it was 2,000 years ago.
Why Kundan Jewellery Still Matters: More Than Just Adornment
Kundan jewellery isn’t just old — it’s a living legacy. With a history that goes back over 2,500 years, each piece carries more than just the shimmer of gold and gems. Kundan is still chosen by brides, collectors, and designers because it represents continuity, status, and artistry in a way machine-made jewellery just can't match.
The reason Kundan jewellery endures is not nostalgia; it's the kind of detail and meaning that only hands-on work delivers. Families pass it down, not for looks, but because it stands for something lasting.
In practice, Kundan is about:
- Symbolism: Used in Indian weddings, rituals, and gifting, it’s a symbol of prosperity and tradition.
- Longevity: Heirloom Kundan is common, with pieces handed down over generations.
- Cultural identity: Its designs reflect regional art styles, stories, and evolving tastes.
So when someone chooses Kundan, they aren’t just picking sparkly accessories — they're connecting with something much bigger.
What Is Kundan Jewellery? The Basics
Kundan jewellery refers to pieces crafted using highly refined gold — usually 24-karat gold — and set with precious or semi-precious stones. The word “Kundan” itself means “pure gold,” which is central to its appeal.
What sets Kundan apart is how it’s made:
- Thin sheets of pure gold are shaped to form a backbone for the design.
- Gemstones like diamonds, emeralds, and rubies are set into this gold using a unique process (not with glue or claws, as in Western jewellery).
- The gold is worked until each stone sits flush, creating a surface that appears seamless and luminous.
This technique produces the distinctive look of Kundan: high-polished gold, closely packed stones, and intricate back designs that are almost as beautiful as the front.
Materials Used to Make a Kundan Piece
Kundan is best understood as a system rather than a single technique. Every authentic piece passes through several hands — and several months.
The Steps Behind the Sparkle
- Design & Sketching: Artists map out the design, accounting for gemstone placement and goldwork.
- Making the Base (Ghaat): Pure or high-carat gold sheets are shaped by hand, forming the jewellery’s structure (source: MyRivaaz).
- Creating the Embellishments (Meenakari): Often, the back is enameled with colorful motifs — itself a whole form of art called meenakari.
- Stone Setting (Kundan): Each stone is placed and surrounded by layers of molten gold foil — the core of the Kundan method.
- Finishing Touches: Artisans polish, clean, and check every piece for flaws.
Common Kundan Materials
| Element | Description | Typical Options |
|---|---|---|
| Gold | 24K sheets, sometimes alloys for strength | Pure gold, yellow gold |
| Gemstones | Main visual focus, selected for clarity | Diamonds, emeralds, rubies, sapphires, others |
| Backing | Wooden or gold sheets for structure | Gold, silver |
| Adhesives | Lac is used for setting during making | Organic lac |
| Enamels | Decorative backs | Colored glass and powdered minerals |
Authentic Kundan stands out for its intricate details, particularly on the back of each piece — a forgotten art in most mass-produced jewellery today.
How Kundan Differs From Polki, Jadau, and Other Styles
It’s easy to get lost in the vocabulary: Kundan, Polki, Jadau. They sometimes overlap, but each refers to something distinct.
| Feature | Kundan | Polki | Jadau |
|---|---|---|---|
| Material | Highly refined (24K) gold, stones | Uncut diamonds, gold | Technique, often Kundan or Polki stones |
| Key Technique | Gold foil setting | Uncut diamond setting | Inlay/embedding stones using lac |
| Look | Smooth, glassy finish, enameled back | Rougher, more natural stones | Deep, architectural jewellery |
| Origins | Mughal, Rajput India | Mughal India | Rajasthan, Gujarat |
| Price Range | High for authentic, moderate for imitation | Highest (due to diamonds) | Varies by technique |
Kundan describes the gold-based setting technique and resulting look. Polki refers to the use of uncut diamonds (often set using Kundan techniques). Jadau is a technique where gems are embedded (often using either Polki or Kundan stones).
Feature Comparison Table
| Feature | Kundan | Polki | Jadau |
|---|---|---|---|
| Stone Type | Precious/semi-precious, cut | Uncut diamonds | Any (inlaid) |
| Setting Technique | Gold foil, embedded | Same as Kundan | Lac-based inlay |
| Visuals | Seamless, flat | Rough, organic | Deep-set stones |
| Value | Precious, heirloom | Highest (diamond) | Varies |
| Origin | Rajasthan/Mughals | Mughal India | Rajasthan/Gujarat |
If you’re buying: Polki is always the priciest, Jadau the most architectural, and Kundan the classic in terms of gold-and-gem fusion.
Where Kundan Jewellery Comes From: History and Influence
Kundan jewellery began under royal patronage in the Mughal courts and Rajput kingdoms, making it one of the oldest forms of jewellery still in fashion today (source: Vogue India).
Key Milestones
- Early Roots: Began around 2,500 years ago, primarily in Rajasthan and Gujarat.
- Mughal Era: Styles became highly ornate and spread across Northern India.
- Rajput Influence: Designs incorporated local motifs — peacocks, lotuses, and geometric patterns.
- British Period: Some techniques faded, but family-based craftsmanship survived.
- Modern Day: Jaipur continues as the global capital for traditional Kundan.
Today, old-world motifs mix with modern influences: stylists layer Kundan necklaces with denims; designers experiment with minimalist settings for a global market. Its visual DNA remains distinctly South Asian.
Recognizing Authentic Kundan: Signs, Signals, and Sins
With knock-offs flooding the market, being able to spot real Kundan is a skill worth having. Authentic pieces have qualities fakes can’t match:
What To Look For
- Weight: Kundan is heavier than lookalikes — even when only gold foil is used.
- Back Detailing: Real pieces sport detailed meenakari (enameling) on the reverse.
- Stone Settings: Each gemstone is laboriously set flush with the gold, not glued.
- Craftsmanship: Edges are smooth, design is balanced, workmanship is precise.
- Materials: Pure or high-carat gold (often 22K or 24K), never plated alloys in authentic pieces.
- Imperfection: Small flaws or asymmetry may signal handwork — perfection often means mass production.
Spotting Fakes: Red Flags
- Light weight or hollow feel
- Stones appear glued or have visible metal prongs
- Cheap alloy “gold” that leaves green marks or tarnishes
- Messy or absent enameling on the back
| Feature | Authentic Kundan | Imitation Kundan |
|---|---|---|
| Gold | 24K/22K, solid | Gold plated alloy |
| Stone setting | Embedded, flush | Glued, uneven |
| Back finish | Enameling present | Bare, unfinished |
| Weight | Substantial | Light |
Kundan in Indian Weddings and Modern Fashion
Kundan isn’t just for royal museums or history buffs — it’s central to modern Indian weddings and increasingly shows up in global fashion as well.
Bridal Significance
- Status Symbol: When a bride wears Kundan, it signals family prestige and tradition.
- Heritage Appeal: Kundan jewellery is often passed down through generations, making it an heirloom.
- Regional Variations: In the North, brides favor elaborate Kundan sets; in the West, they mix Kundan with other styles.
Brides aren’t just following tradition — they’re displaying what their families value most: heritage, patience, and taste.
Kundan Goes Global
Indian designers and Western stylists now pair Kundan with contemporary fashion:
- Layered with denims or linen: Kundan chokers worn over a white tee, for high/low contrast.
- Event styling: Statement pieces for red carpets, festivals, or fusion events.
- Runways: 2024–26 has seen designers like Sabyasachi and Ritu Kumar reinterpret Kundan for unisex and non-bridal fashion.
Bottom line: Kundan isn’t just “wedding jewellery” anymore. It’s been re-invented for every kind of self-expression.
Types of Kundan Jewellery: What’s Out There?
Kundan is used to make a wide range of jewellery, from everyday wear to bridal sets. Here are some staples:
- Necklaces: From multi-layered “rani haar” to sleek chokers.
- Earrings: Jhumkas, studs, danglers, chandbalis.
- Maang Tikka: Hair ornaments for the center parting.
- Bangles & Bracelets: Stacked or single statement pieces.
- Nose Rings: Large or dainty, set with stones.
- Brooches & Rings: Often paired for coordinated sets.
| Type | Typical Usage | Style Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Rani Haar | Bridal, ceremonial | Multi-layered, elaborate |
| Choker | Party, wedding, casual | Sits close to neck, can be heavy |
| Jhumkas | All occasions | Bell-shaped, classic with Kundan |
| Maang Tikka | Weddings, festivals | Center-head adornment |
| Bangles | Weddings, parties | Often worn in sets |
Part of the beauty of Kundan jewellery is how well it adapts — from understated daily wear to all-out bridal looks.
Kundan Motifs: Stories Told In Gold and Gems
Just like art, Kundan designs carry regional symbolism and storytelling. Some enduring motifs:
- Peacocks: Symbol of royalty and beauty, popular in Rajput-influenced designs.
- Lotus flowers: Mark of purity and rebirth.
- Paisley: Represents fertility and luck.
- Geometric patterns: Popular in Mughal-era pieces, signal order and perfection.
These motifs aren’t just decoration; they’re carefully chosen to bring “good fortune” to the wearer, especially in ceremonial contexts.
The Kundan Making Process: Why It’s So Labour-Intensive
The most distinctive thing about Kundan is the sheer number of steps and artisans required to finish a single piece.
Timeline of a Kundan Necklace
| Step | Artisan’s Role | Typical Timeframe |
|---|---|---|
| Design | Sketch artists | 1–2 weeks |
| Base construction | Ghaat-makers | 2–4 weeks |
| Enamelling | Meenakar (enameller) | 1–2 weeks |
| Stone setting | Kundan-setter | 3–6 weeks |
| Polishing/Finishing | Polisher, assembler | 1 week |
| Total | Multiple craftspeople | 2–4 months |
That’s one of the reasons authentic Kundan is priced as an investment, not a fashion accessory.
Pricing Kundan Jewellery: What Impacts Cost?
The price of Kundan can feel unpredictable because it depends on several moving parts:
- Gold purity and weight: More 24K gold = higher price.
- Stone type and size: Real diamonds, emeralds cost more than glass or synthetic stones.
- Age and provenance: Antique pieces carry a premium.
- Craftsmanship: More detail equals more hours of labour.
- Brand/designer: Well-known names like Sunita Shekhawat command higher fees.
| Factor | Increases Price | Lowers Price |
|---|---|---|
| Gold content | 24K solid | Gold-plated alloy |
| Gems | Diamonds, precious stones | Glass, synthetic, semi-precious |
| Age | Antique, heirloom | Modern mass production |
| Craftsmanship | Handwork, meenakari | Machine-made, plain back |
| Brand | Designer, heritage houses | No-name manufacturers |
There’s no “standard price” for Kundan — expect a wide range, from a few hundred dollars for imitations to tens of thousands for museum-level originals.
A New Angle: Can Kundan Be Sustainable? (And Why That Matters Now)
One thing you won’t find in most guides: the growing push for eco-friendly practices in traditional jewellery. In 2026, more artisans and brands are rethinking Kundan making in light of climate concerns.
- Recycled Gold: Some workshops now use repurposed gold, reducing the need for new mining.
- Ethically Sourced Gems: Tracking gem provenance avoids conflict minerals.
- Low-Impact Processes: Eco-friendly lac and enamels are now more common than five years ago.
- Digital Tracking: QR codes and blockchain to certify origin and sustainability.
The Sustainability Table
| Practice | Traditional Kundan | Modern Sustainable Kundan |
|---|---|---|
| Gold sourcing | Virgin, mined | Recycled, traceable |
| Stone sourcing | Mixed, untracked | Ethically sourced |
| Lac/enamel | Conventional | Low-toxicity, green options |
| Production | Handcrafted | Still handcrafted, lower waste |
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: What is Kundan jewellery?
A: Kundan jewellery is a traditional form of Indian jewelry made from highly refined 24-karat gold and set with precious or semi-precious stones. The term 'Kundan' translates to 'pure gold,' which highlights its luxurious appeal.
Q: What is Kundan stone?
A: Kundan stones refer to the precious or semi-precious gemstones that are set into Kundan jewellery. Common options include diamonds, emeralds, rubies, and sapphires, which are embedded into the gold using a unique setting technique.
Q: What is Kundan made of?
A: Kundan is primarily made of 24-karat gold sheets and various gemstones. The gold serves as the base, while the stones are intricately set into the gold using a traditional method that creates a seamless appearance.
Q: What is Kundan Polki?
A: Kundan Polki refers to a style of jewellery that combines Kundan techniques with Polki stones, which are uncut diamonds. This fusion creates a unique aesthetic that is both traditional and luxurious.
Q: Is Kundan jewellery expensive?
A: Yes, Kundan jewellery can be quite expensive, primarily due to the high purity of gold used and the intricate craftsmanship involved in its creation. Authentic pieces are considered investments rather than mere fashion accessories.
Q: What materials are used in Kundan jewellery making?
A: Kundan jewellery is made using several materials, including 24K gold, precious gemstones, organic lac for setting, and colored glass or powdered minerals for enameling. Each material contributes to the overall beauty and authenticity of the piece.
Q: How long does it take to make Kundan jewellery?
A: Crafting Kundan jewellery can take anywhere from two to four months, as it involves multiple artisans and several intricate steps, including design, base construction, stone setting, and finishing touches.
Q: How can I identify authentic Kundan jewellery?
A: Authentic Kundan jewellery can be identified by its weight, detailed back enameling, flush stone settings, and high-quality craftsmanship. Look for signs of handwork, as mass-produced pieces often lack these intricate details.
